Method of grading shoe lasts



Nov. 9

r W. FOLLET METHOD OF GRADING'SHOE LASTS Original Filed June 20, 1921 Patented Nov. 9, 1926 UNITED STATES 1,606,731 PATENT OFFICE.

WILLIAM FOLLET, OF DAYTON, OHIO, ASSIGNOR TO THE CRAWFORD, MCGREGOR A N D' CANBY COMYANY, OF -DAY'ION, OHIO, A CORPORATION OF OHIO.

METHOD OF GRADING SHOE LASTS.

Original. application filed June 20, 1921, Serial No.

Divided and this application filed May 27, 1925.

The present invention relates to shoe lasts and particularly to a system of grading lasts or standardization of the heel curve for lasts of different sizes, in which the heel curve is tilted forwardly or rearwardly about the apex of the base angle of the last heel to predetermined degree for each different size of last.

It is customary for the shoe manufacturer to supply to the last maker a template or form, or in some instances a sample last disclosing the particular curvature of the heel of the last, which has been adopted as a standard by the shoe manufacturer. The particular contour of this heel curve varies somewhat among dilferent shoe manufacturers. Some manufacturers prefer a heel curve of considerable depth, While others adopt one of less degree. These heel curves are not of true circular form, but are irregular curves having their points of greatest curve differently disposed by difierent shoe manufacturers. This standardized curve is usually supplied for only one size of last. The size four last is usually adopted as the standard and other sizes of lasts are made to agreetherewith, except for cer tain modifications due to increased or decreased sizes. l'l hile it is customary to maintain the standardized heel curve adopted by the shoe manufacturers throughout the entire series of lasts, it has been found desirable and advantageous to change its relative position with each change of last size. That is to say, in the present system using the intersection of the heel curve with the bottom of the last heel as a center, this curved outline is tilted inwardly or outwardly with each variation of size. It is important in order that lasts of difierent sizes may agree accurately with the shoe uppers for such sizes as graded upon the leather grading machines commonly employed in shoe manufacture. By experiment and practical demonstration, it has been determined that the heel contour outline should be tilted outwardly or rearwardly, approximately one thirty-seconds of an inch for each variation of size larger than the standard number four size of last, and should be tilted forwardly or inwardly approximately a like degree for each succeeding size more than the standard number four last, such measurement being made at 478,952. Patent No. 576,183, dated March 9, 1926.

Serial No. 33,136.

the top of the heel curve. It is quite impor-- In order to accurately gauge the contour.

and pitch of such heel curve, there has been developed an adjustable heel gauge which is described and claimed in co-pending application Serial N 0. 478,952, filed June 20, 1921, since matured into issued Patent No. 1,576,183, dated March 9, 1926, of whichape plication the present is a division.

The object of the present invention is to afford a, method or system. ofgrading shoe lasts by giving to the series of lasts of different sizes, predetermined pitch or angular relation of the heel curve with the sole or bottom of the last, varying uniformly throughout the series, in accordance with the relative sizes of the last comprising such series.

With the above primary and. other incidental objects in view as will more fully appear in the specification, the invention consists of the method or system of graduating the heel curve of lasts in accordance with the last sizes, by tilting. such heel curve, to dili'erent degrees of angular relation with the bottom of the last for each variation of size, ashereinaf-ter described and set forth in the claims.

In the accompanying drawings, wherein is illustrated the application of the method forming the subject matter hereof, Fig. 1 is a side elevation of a typical shoe last, illustrating by dotted lines variations of the pitch of the heel curve, as applied to lasts of different sizes. Fig. 2 is a side elevation of an adjustable gauge for determining the proper pitch and contour of last heels. Fig. 3 isasomewhat diagrammatic view illustrating in exaggerated form, the variations of pitch or angular relation of the heel contour to thebottom of the last as applied to lasts of difierent sizes.

Like parts are indicated by similar characters of references throughout the several views.

Referring to the drawings, 1 is the'heel portion of a shoe last, the heel curve or contour 2 of which is usually though not necessarily predetermined by the shoe manufacturers who will subsequently manufacture shoes over such lasts. 'lhis curvature is reproduced upon a template or gauge 3. Dilierent templates having outlines or contour curves of difi'erent degree and difierent shapes are provided for dill'erent manufacturers or for diiierent styles oi lasts, which may be made for the same shoe manufacturers. 'lhe heel curve 2 oi the last is made to agree with the curvature oi this template or gauge plate 3. It has been :tound in practice unsatisfactory to give the lasts of all sizes throughout the series the same pitch or angular relation to the base or bottom of the last. 111 the present method this pitch or angular relation of the heel contour to the bottom of the last is progressively increased or decreased, with the progressive variation 01 last sizes. 'lo accurately determine this pitch for diflerent sizes of lasts, the template or gauge plate 3 is pivoted to a second plate l, for oscillatory movement about a center 5. Mounted in suitable lugs or studs 8 and 9 011 the lower ends of the main plate l and adjustable gauge plate 3 is an adjusting screw 10 by which the plates are relatively adjusted about their pivotal connection points 5. They are held in their adjusted relation by a clamp nut 11, engaging through an arcuate slot 12, in one of the plates. The main plate a may he graduated as at 13, to indicate ditferent degrees of pitch of, the heel curve or diil'erent sizes of shoe lasts. It such graduated scale is employed, the adjusting screw is operated to oscillate the template or gauge plate 3 into registry with the desired indication. This will cause the gauge plate and template 3 to assume a predetermined angular relation with the gauge point 14 on the plate 4, which in operation bears upon the bottom of the last heel, while the center oi oscillation 5, which forms a second gauge point is brought into registry with the apex of the base angle of the last heel. The gauge is applied to the heelot the last with the gauge point let bearing upon the bottom or' the last and the pivotal point 5 at the juncture of the heel curve and bottom 01' the last heel, whereupon, if the last is accurately and properly contoured, the heel curve will agree exactly with the curvature of the template or gauge plate 3. If the heel curve does not accurately agree thelast is not properly proportioned, or the last is of a different size. For each variation of one size of last, the template or gauge plate is tilted outwardly or inwardly according to the increase or decrease of the last size approximately one thirty-second of an inch, at a point co-incident with the top of the last heel, while the lower end of the heel curve or template remains constant at the point 5 co-incident with the base angle of the last formed by the juncture of the heel curve with the bottom or the last heel.

Referring to Fig. 3 and assuming that the solid line contour is that of the standardized curve for the number four last, the pitch or the curve will be inclined forwardly as at w, for lasts of smaller sizes, or will be inclined rearwardly as at y as the last sizes increase. The adjustment of the template or gauge plate 3 by means of the adjusting l0, varies the template curve to various pitch positions shown by dotted lines in Figs. 1 and 8. in any position, there are three gauge points, to wit: the point 1e; at the forward corner of the main plate l, the point 5, which is also the center of oscillation, which upon application to the last is brought into agreement with the juncture oi the heel curve and last bottom, and the upward end of the gauge or template which is brought into bearing against the juncture of the heel curve and the top' of the last on the top angle, whereupon upon a properly contoured last, the curvature of the last heel will agree accurately with that or the template, when the latter is adjusted to the pitch corresponding to the last- 5.

The adjustable form of last gauge illus trated in Fig. 2 has been shown for illustrative purposes only. It is understood that the method is not limited to the use of an adjustable or universal gauge. It is obvious that a separate gauge or template may be provided for each and every size of last, with which the present method or process out last grading may be carried out.

From the above description it will be apparent that there is thus provided a device of the character described possessing the particular features of advantage before enumerated as desirable, but which obviously is susceptible of modification in its form, proportions, detail construction and arrangement of parts without departing from the principle involved or sacrificing any of its advantages.

While in order to comply with the statute the invention has been described in language more or less specific as to structural features it is to be understood that the invention is not limited to the specific details shown, but that the means and construction herein disclosed comprises the preferred form of sev eral modes of putting the invention into ettect and the invention is, therefore, claimed in any of its forms or modifications within the legitimate and valid scope of the appended claims.

Having thus described my invention, I claim: v

1. The herein described method of grading shoe lasts consisting in forming the heel curves of lasts or several different sizes in different relation with the body of the last by tilting it forwardly for decreasing sizes of lasts and tilting it backWardly in lasts of, increased size.

2. The herein described method of grading the heel curves of lasts consisting in forming substantially the same heel curve upon lasts of different sizes and modifying the lasts of different sizes by tilting the curve of the heel in fore and aft direction to different degrees in proportionate relation to the relative sizes of the lasts.

3. The herein described method of grading the heel curves of lasts, consisting in forming the rear end of the heels of different sizes of lasts with different angular deflections in relation with the body of the last, by tilting the curve of the heel to different predetermined degrees in a fore and aft direction on lasts of different sizes about the base angle of the heel as a center.

4. The herein described method of grading shoe lasts consisting in forming the rear of each last heel to a predetermined curvature which shall be the same for each size of lasts throughout a given range of sizes, and changing the angular relation of such heel curve with the body of the last of each different size by inclining such rear heel curve forwardly in lasts of smaller size and rearwardly in lasts of larger size.

5. The herein described method of grading shoe lasts of different sizes consisting in forming the rear ends of the heel portions of different sizes of lasts in progressively different angular positions in relation with the body of the last the degree of angularity differing proportionately to the relative sizes of the different lasts.

6. The herein described method of grading shoe lasts by forming the heel curvature of different lasts in different predetermined angular relation with the base of such heel portion as determined by the size of the last in accordance with a predetermined standard of such relations.

In testimony whereof, I have hereunto set my handflthis 21st day of May A. D; 1925.

WILLIAM FOLLET. 

